What does Lola mean surf?

LOLA, the Surfline swell model that spurred a forecasting revolution, is retiring after 20 years. The brainchild of Sean Collins and William O'Reilly, LOLA provided timely and accurate forecasts for millions of surfers around the world over the past two decades.

How do you read a Surfline?

Surfline's surf quality scale – 1 = FLAT: No waves mean no surfing. – 2 = VERY POOR: The forecast may include words like "lack of surf," "bad," or even "very stormy." – 3 = POOR: Due to wind and a poor tide, there are only some fair waves to surf this morning. – 4 = POOR to FAIR: Low to average waves.

How do you know which waves are good for surfing?

You can tell a spot has a steep profile if it gets deep very quickly. In this case the waves will break closer to the shore and they'll be packing some power. Spots that gradually get deeper will often have gentler waves, ideal for learning to surf. Tides go in and out with high and low being roughly 6 hours apart.

How do you read swell direction?

The swell direction is usually expressed in cardinal points (N, E, S, W). As a general rule of thumb, a beach facing directly west will get bigger and better waves if the swell comes from the west. The swell direction is important — if the swell doesn't hit your region correctly, you will not receive good waves.

What is a female surfer called?

Wahine – Female surfer.

What does Grom mean in surfing?

Grommet is frequently abbreviated to grom and refers to a young participant under the age of around 18 that participates in the sport of surfing. The first use of the word in any printed form appears in an article by Nicholas Tomalin in 1964.

What tide is best to surf?

The best tide for surfing in most cases is low, to an incoming medium tide. Keep in mind low-tide on shallow surf breaks jack the waves up higher, leaving less room between the water's surface and ocean bottom. Always know the area you're surfing and avoid shallow reef and rock obstacles if possible.

What is a swell in surfing?

Swell is energy that has been transferred into the sea by wind. The longer and stronger the wind blows (like a hurricane) the more energy that is transferred and so larger the swell.

When should you not go surfing?

Health experts believe people should avoid surfing or swimming in the sea for at least 72 hours following a rainfall because they will expose themselves to diseases and infections. A few hours after a major precipitation event, the ocean water becomes a paradise for E.

Is it okay to surf alone?

Many people like to surf alone. Because they can manage their time before, during, and after the session, and because they can choose the break they prefer at any given time.

What is the difference between a wave and a swell?

Waves are generated by wind moving over water; they indicate the speed of the wind in that area. Swell are waves (usually with smooth tops) that have moved beyond the area where they were generated.

How do surfers say thanks?

Other Hawaiian words, like aloha (a greeting) or mahalo (“thank you”), are also sometimes roped into the surfing world.

How do surfers say cool?

Exclamatory slang It's an exclamation of zeal, also meaning cool or impressive (i.e. “that bottom turn was sick bro”). Stoked: Pronounced like “soaked” but with a “T.” It means pure excitement (i.e. Surfer 1: “how stoked are you to hit the waves today?” Surfer 2: “beyond stoked”).

What does Kook mean in surfing?

Kook, noun. Pronunciation: kük : An individual with no understanding of the social and sartorial norms of surfing. In the water, a kook's cluelessness can aggravate or endanger other surfers; on occasion, kooks can even be recognized solely by the faux pas they commit out of the ocean.

Why do surfers surf in the morning?

Light offshore winds are the most important reason for why the surf is better in the morning and evenings. As a basic rule of thumb, the winds are typically lighter in the morning, stronger in the afternoon and occasionally become light again just in time for a beautiful sunset session.

What size waves should a beginner surf?

1-2 feet high As a beginner, you should start by practising on small white water waves (1-2 feet high) and only move on to catching the bigger waves when you feel ready. Not only is this important for your safety, but it will also help you to avoid hostility from other surfers if you get in their way.

What is a bowl wave?

A type of wave, or portion of wave, that bends in on itself as it breaks; as viewed from above, a bowl section is crescent-shaped. Bowl waves are generally caused by a raised area of reef or sandbar; they can also be formed as a wave bounces off a jetty or head-land and intersects with the following wave.

What is 1st and 2nd swell?

When the primary swell is between 4 and 6 metres, second swell is included if it is greater than 1.5 metres and from a different direction. When the primary swell is between 6 and 8 metres, second swell is included if it is greater than 2 metres and from a different direction.

Why do surfers go in the morning?

Why is surfing so good for you?

Health benefits of surfing Surfing provides many health benefits including: cardiovascular fitness – from paddling. shoulder and back strength – these muscles will strengthen from the paddling. leg and core strength – once you're standing up on the board, strong legs and a strong core will keep you up.

What do you do if you see a shark while surfing?

If you do see a shark when you're surfing, please exit the water immediately. You don't need to thrash around and panic, but if you do see a dorsal or you hear somebody say that they saw a shark, you should leave the area.

What does seas around 2 feet mean?

So, in this case, there is a 2-foot swell coming out of the west at a distance where a wave crest will pass a stationary point every 8-seconds. In other words, they're calling for a fairly calm ocean.

What height of waves is considered rough?

2.5 – 4 Wave explanations

Description	Height (metres)	WMO Sea State code
Smooth	0.1 – 0.5	2
Slight	0.5 – 1.25	3
Moderate	1.25 – 2.5	4
Rough	2.5 – 4	5

What is a surfer girl called?

Wahine – Female surfer.

Why do surfers say hang 10?

To hang ten, you have to perfectly balance your surfboard — usually a heavy longboard — so that the back of the board is covered by the wave. Doing so allows the rider to walk all the way to the front of the board and hang all ten toes over the front of the board. That's where the “hang ten" comes from!

What is slang for a surfer?

Grom/Grommet– Young or up and coming surfer. Haole- Hawaiian term for unwanted tourists in the wave lineup. Kook- Universal word for a novice or disrespectful surfer. A danger to those surfing near them. Barney-Newbie, goofy surfer.

What is a Barney in surfing?

What? But among surfers, a Barney is universally a beginner, someone who doesn't belong. Like kook, but not tossed around so much that it loses meaning. No, to be called a Barney in the lineup means that wordsmith reserved his coup de grâce of insults specifically for you, amigo.

Why do surfers drag their hand in the wave?

Hand Dragging Whenever you're going too fast and heading into the shoulder of the wave, drag your hand – or even both – in the face of the wave to slow down the speed. For example, if you're in the barrel, get your inside hand in the water, and grab your outside rail with the other hand.

Is it OK to surf alone?

Many people like to surf alone. Because they can manage their time before, during, and after the session, and because they can choose the break they prefer at any given time.